Nez Perce Peak – Approximately 34.5 miles from Darby, Montana 08/15/2019

Kid Perspective:

  • Running Wild – Despite getting to a summit, we were not concerned in the least with letting the kids loose. We were on a peak but as long as they did not venture to edge there really was not anything to worry about.
  • The Trail – Awesome! We wound along the sides of mountains and ridgelines throughout the entire journey.
  • Trail Conditions – Well..there were downed trees everywhere in the forested sections and when I saw everywhere, I mean everywhere!
  • Bugs and Pests – Bee’s and flies at the summit but nothing else.
  • Plants – Lush greenery!
  • Bathrooms – Outhouse at the trailhead, otherwise practice Leave No Trace.
  • Cell Service – Nada, download any maps or information that you will need prior to heading out.

Trail Information:

  • Length – 11.5 miles
  • Elevation Gain – 1,750 feet
  • Difficulty – Moderate due to the length

Highlights:

  • Combo – Seeing the remains of the old watchtower and the views at the end
  • Biff – Oh Daddy Tree, Oh Daddy Tree (read on for more information)
  • Blaze – The constant scenery and being able to see for miles and miles. The solitude, with the only people around flying high above us in planes.
  • Ripper – Lunch atop the mountain was awesome! And all of the views and changing scenery throughout the hike was a real treat.

Finally the day we had been so looking forward to had arrived – we would be tackling our longest hike as a family yet! We were up at 6:00 am and on the road before 7:00 am, with Nez Perce Peak as our destination. We stopped at the Ranch where “Yellowstone” is filmed on the way out. This was especially cool because this is one of our favorite shows and it constantly reminds us of all of our Montana adventures.

We reached the parking area and trailhead by 8:00 am. The neat part about the parking area at Nez Perce/Castle Rock is that there is a helicopter pad in the middle of it!

Another fun fact (one which we did not realize until much later in the day) is that we actually hiked the other trail that can be accessed by this parking area (Castle Rock) two years ago to the day! After bathroom breaks we hit the trail with our eyes peeled for the Salish Indian grave sites that our book described.

There was an initial steep incline to the trail but by promising that this would be the hardest part, the kids endured it without too much complaining.

The trail took us along our first ridgeline, treating us to spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. We continued to keep our eyes peeled for the grave sites but were unable to locate them.

As we left the trees we marveled at just how completely surrounded we were by the mountains and wilderness. Our souls were at peace and we talked about how the trail was created by the Nez Perce and Salish peoples who traversed the trails many years ago. The kids wondered what it would be like to always travel on foot, especially over and through so many mountains.

My all time favorite movie is “The Sound of Music” and I really felt like we were in the middle of the story line as we continued our journey. I may or may not have broke out into “the hills are alive with the sound of music” at this point – not sure the kids appreciated it too much but they pretended like it was a big deal. And if you looked closely you could see the road that we had traveled the day before – so tiny!

Re-entering the second forested ridgeline we came upon our first (of many) downed trees. Initially this was a fun challenge for the kids but by the end they were done with them.

The forested ridgeline and tree challenge did not last forever and eventually we came to another trek along the mountainside. It was absolutely breathtaking and I could not imagine any better place to be on earth. This trail quickly became my favorite trail to date.

Out of nowhere we heard a loud noise directly to the right of us off the trail, followed by a grouse taking flight. The solitude of the trail thus far had lulled us into a calm and tranquil state which the grouse easily disturbed, lending us to shouting and jumping in surprise. My heart was racing! As we looked for where the grouse went, we disturbed four more grouse, which made us jump again. The funny thing was that the grouse took off from their hiding places but never went far from us – we did not seem to bother them.

Making our way back into the forest we encountered more downed trees. Climbing over trees and happily snacking, we made a deal with the kids that we would stop for breaks every mile, which seemed to please them. We brought many different snacks with and kept switching the treats up.

Branching away from the Divide Trail and onto the Nez Perce trail we encountered even more downed trees.

In the forested section we found woodpeckers that were certainly not afraid of us, large animal prints (we were not along but never saw any of them), and a burned area.

Castle Rock continued to move farther into the distance as we entered another prairie section where we walked the ridgeline.

Dad pointed out a peak and declared that was our final destination. We did not believe him because it looked so incredibly far away…we had yet to learn our lesson…Dad was once again right (grr).

Back into another forested area, we climbed over and under trees, and around them when too difficult for anything else. We were getting our exercise that is for sure!

Eventually we could see the summit!! Everyone became excited with a surge of energy rushing through us. Gummy Bear after Gummy Bear, we approached the top, only to realize we had stumbled upon a false summit. This dashed all of Biff’s dreams, requiring lots of encouragement and treats to keep moving.

Climbing through burnt trees, downed trees, and lush green undergrowth we found several large animal poops and prints. We wondered where they all came from? We also found some really cool rocks!

Biff hung behind, needing many Gummy Bears to continue while Dad and Combo dashed on ahead.

When we reached the top we were breathless but not due to exertion. It was absolutely incredible at the top! We were 100% completely surrounded by mountains and rugged wilderness – no roads could be seen nor people. I could have stayed there forever!

Alternating between a leisurely lunch and exploring the remains of the old watchtower, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. The kids found old pieces of glass, screws, and pieces of metal. It was really cool!

Soon we were overrun by bee’s and knew we had overstayed our welcome. It was time to head out!

Combo and I decided we would count all of the downed trees on our way back. In order to count, we needed to either a) have to climb over the tree; b) scoot under the tree; or c) go around the tree because it blocked the trail. Let the counting begin!

Again the hills were alive with music and we were all still in pretty good spirits…this would not last.

It started to get quite warm as the sun was out in full force now and we were not always afforded the shade that the forested areas provided. The open ridgelines started to become long and HOT.

As the force of the sun and heat grew, so did the cheering on for the kiddos – we also broke out the big gun treats. You can do it guys!

Entering another forested area, Combo and I made it to our 100th downed tree and had to commemorate the moment. Now mind you, Combo was going to help in this endeavor but because she is only 8 she was often distracted and needed frequent reminders of the tree count – but it was still a momentous occasion for us.

Biff and Dad teamed up at this point, but Biff was really having a rough time – he was DONE! Dad to the rescue, making up a fun new song…”Oh Daddy Tree, Oh Daddy Tree – I’ll decorate your beautiful butt cheeks”! As you can imagine, each family member was rotated into the song, with innumerable body parts decorated. A week later, I still have this song stuck in my head!!

We counted 132 downed trees and have the bruises and abrasions to prove it, from climbing over those buggers. Dad ended up carrying Biff off and on, while Combo rocked it! When we had 1 1/2 miles to go, we started looking for the grave site again. We were just giving up the search when off in the distance we spotted it and dashed ahead. The Salish Indian had died at 80 years of age in 1990. We noticed that others had left quarters on the gravestone and the kids decided to do the same. It was a humbling experience at the grave site.

As we started our last leg of the hike, Dad dashed on ahead to use the facilities. Mom, Combo and Biff continued at kid pace but in great spirits all the way to the car! 7 1/2 hours and 11.5 miles later, we made it!!

Of course we needed to treat ourselves to dinner!

This was a tough journey for us but we persevered and did it! We are so proud of the kids!! Please take a moment to let us know what you think and if there are any adventures that you would like us to check out. Happy hiking!

Selway River Trail & Bad Luck Creek – Approximately 65 miles from Darby, Montana 08/14/2019

Kid Perspective:

  • Running Wild – We were confident in letting the kids take the lead on the trail. No big cliffs or areas of concerns when it came to the trail (read on).
  • The Trail – The Selway River Trail wound along the Selway River with pleasant up’s and downs, snaking into the forest here and there.
  • Trail Conditions – Great! There was the usual roots and rocks covering the trail sporadically but nothing that impeded our journey.
  • Bugs and Pests – Nada…BUT we did encounter a Rattle Snake along the Bad Luck Creek Trail and the Selway River Trail is known for Rattle Snake encounters and so for this reason I would highly recommend that you watch the kids closely!
  • Plants – Interesting plant coverage – we were surprised by some of the different varieties of plants that we saw.
  • Bathrooms – Outhouses at the trailhead but then nothing along the way – as always, practice Leave No Trace.
  • Cell Service – Absolutely nothing. We lost service approximately 20 miles from Darby, so make sure you have a good idea of where you are going and that you have downloaded any information you may need ahead of time.

Trail Information:

  • Length – The Selway River Trail is 49.5 miles but we did not cover the full trail. Our chosen path was about 7 miles of hiking in approximately 4 hours.
  • Elevation Gain – Not much on the Selway River Trail, but there were several ups and downs which made things more exciting. On the Bad Luck Creek trail we encountered a steepish incline at first, followed by some switchbacks which leveled out into a fairly flat trail. We did not track the specific elevation gain that day so I cannot really comment on the exact gain.
  • Difficulty – Easy, nothing too demanding.

Highlights:

  • Combo – Being the one to actually see the Rattle Snake…even if it was scary!
  • Biff – Throwing sticks into the water at the Paradise Landing.
  • Blaze – The cool plants we found.
  • Ripper – Not getting bitten by the Rattle Snake!

We were up at 5:00 am and on the road by 5:30 am, knowing that we had a 3 1/2 hour drive ahead of us (from Corvallis, Montana). The road was super remote, narrow, and winding. We lost cell service an hour into the drive…solitude!

Finding ourselves back in the Magruder Corridor, we were excited to see Castle Rock once again! The sign warning of the potential poor conditions of Nez Perce Pass brought back fond memories of memorable hike to Castle Rock in August of 2017. We reminisced fondly of that trail and decided that we definitely would need to hike it again (hopefully the Summer of 2020).

Finding the trailhead for Bad Luck Mountain was difficult. We went 100 yards past the Ranger Station, as described in our guide book and found what we thought was the trail but this ended up being a deer trail, so we turned around. We asked the Rangers and they pointed us down the road, where we found a trail and headed out.

The trail meandered along the Selway River, climbing and descending gently.

The river and trail were surrounded by mountains on all sides and we were treated to expansive views each time we would get to the top of a hill.

Always on the lookout for cool finds, Combo spotted another set of bones on the side of the trail. We have no idea where these came from, so if you have an idea, she would love to know!

We knew that we were not on the right trail because the trail itself was not matching our map at all but we decided to keep going because it was so gorgeous! Just goes to show that in this section of the world even the wrong trail is the right trail, as long as your mind is open to the idea.

Eventually we came across a sign for Bad Luck Creek, which turned away from the river and we took off. Encountering several steep switchbacks right off the bat, we became excited!

Stopping for snack breaks here and there, we were cooking! On one such break, Dad pointed out a very interesting plant…we stopped to look around and noticed they were EVERYWHERE! I am not going to post a picture of the plant but keep your eyes peeled if you head out that way.

At another point we were walking by a bush, when we heard a sharp rattle. Combo swore up and down that she had seen a Rattle Snake. Let’s just say that we were all a bit more cautious from there on out.

The trail became increasingly more overgrown as we went on. We were walking through spiderwebs and deep underbrush that nearly covered the trail completely. With our recent Rattle Snake encounter fresh in our minds, we were starting to hear rattles coming from everywhere (they were not – some might have been Dad messing with us while others were a figment of our very rich imaginations). Nonetheless, at the next creek crossing we decided we would head back for the day.

Still jittery about potential snakes (it did not help that Biff was now chiming in with the rattle sounds and pretending to yell at a Rattle Snake), we were all trying to figure out exactly which bush the rattle came from, making progress a little slow. We ended up giving each dried bush that touched the trail plenty of space, just in case (Dad did too, even if he will not admit he was a little freaked out).

The Selway River Trail was littered with manure – were constantly walking over droppings of one sort or another. The trail is actually a used stock trail so the manure was to be expected. When we met back up with the Selway River Trail we found fresh horse manure and guessed that the Forest Rangers had taken to the trail behind us, perhaps to make sure we were ok.

Making our way back along the river, we pointed out cool rocks and HUGE pine cones. Combo and I even saw a tiny snake slither across the rocks – it appeared to be a vibrant blue and was super fast!

Biff was starting to become a little testy and Dad tried to cheer him up by squirting water on him…this did not help AT ALL. What followed next was hilarious! Biff began to lecture Dad on the importance of not wasting water on the trail and how irresponsible doing something like squirting water was. Nothing like the pot calling the kettle black!

So Dad suggested that Biff also squirt water on him and guess what? Biff cheered right up! So much for the lecture eh? Biff was able to squirt water on Dad in such a way as to make him look like he had peed his pants…this really made Biff’s day and it was happier hiking from there on out!

We began discussing which toy the kids would pick out after our hike. The previous night we had made a deal with them that if they were able to make it through the hike without any major meltdowns, we would purchase them a toy of their choice. Boy oh boy did they have ideas!!

As the trail wound closer to the river and became flatter, the kids were renewed with energy, as they knew they had nearly made it and were that much closer to their prizes! Of course seeing the Paradise Landing bridge sealed the deal and they were off!

Kids LOVE the water so of course we had to walk down the boat ramp and soak our feet in the water, while watching Forest Service workers perform maintenance at the boat launch. And we certainly could not miss the chance to throw a couple sticks into the water!

Our drive home was a bit more scary, as we encountered three large Forest Service trucks hauling dirt to even out the road. Each time we encountered a truck it was just around a corner on that tiny dirt road, forcing Dad to stop quickly and back up several hundred feet to the next pull off. We were certainly happy when the road opened up again! All in all, wrong trail and everything, it was another wonderful day that were so thankful to have been able to enjoy!

Thank you for taking the time to read about our adventures and I hope you were able to find inspiration to get outside and enjoy that great big world of ours! Until next time, take care!